SeXBox - Using Force Feedback Signals for Sex Toys - PS1/PS2 Version
SeXBox - PS1/2 Version
Pictures thanks to subgirl
For everyone that wanted to know what vibe that is in the picture, click here for the post with all the information.
For every XBox out there, there are roughly 349650358903 PS2's. It's a much shittier platform to develop for, but Sony are the masters of marketing, and they've been in the game much, much longer. So just consider us the fat, pimply kid following the popular kid.
Porting the SeXBox project to the PS2 was simple, mainly because it looks like the controllers use the exact same motor setup (I highly doubt there's a ton of competition in the small vibration motor field). I've changed the pictures and some of the text in order to account for the difference in controller hardware, but the method is pretty much the same.
So, without further ado...
What you'll need
PS2 controller Soldering Iron Dremel or some sort of small drill/grinder Wire A vibrator However many AA batteries the vibrator takes Electrical tape
Mod Difficulty: Good god, this is so stupidly easily.
Intro
Here at /8====>, we've already combined two things essential to live - strip clubs and food. Now it's time to put sex and video games together in a pair we like to call The SeXBox. The second you start playing with this while on any game with the PS2 network, it turns into teledildonics!
This mod didn't take any engineering. There's nothing new or amazing that we're doing with this, hell, we really didn't even think of the method first. However, we DID involve sex, so we win!
Ok, so we come in 2nd to Girl Game Advance's use of the Rez Trancevibrator. But it's a close second! Except for the fact that they have a picture of like, a REAL girl, and we're stuck with pictures of dildos, multimeters, and MAN HANDS (at least, we were in the XBox version. LOOK! GIRL HANDS!).
Basically, what you're going to be doing is hijacking the 5VDC line that goes to the large vibration motor on the right-hand side of your PS2 controller (this is assuming your PS2 controller is facing up). Using this line, you can do a ton of stuff that involves needing power that's triggered by a game. Here's a couple of examples:
(A list of mods would usually go here. However, I'm not aware of any PS2 controller mods. If someone has some that follow this setup, please email me.)
Like I said, this isn't original. Even so, no one has hooked it up to a sex toy... UNTIL NOW.
So right now, you're probably saying to yourself "qDot, you said the motor runs off a 5 VDC line? My vibrator only takes 1 or 2 AA batteries! Isn't that too much power?"
Yes, yes it is. In a later tutorial (when I actually have the parts, and yes, I realize I'm just missing resistors, but Radio Shack is a whole block away and I've got a new toy to play with!), we'll be showing how to do a current reduction so that you don't burn out the motors in your toys quite so quickly. However, for now, this is more of a proof of concept deal. We won't stop you from setting this up, but be warned, you're shipping a ton of current to a motor that probably wasn't made for it, so expect quicker burnout.
Also, note that this is going to void the warrenty on everything you work on. I know how much fun returning used sex toys is, but you won't be able to do it after this, since you're running it off a non-standard power supply.
Finally, we take no responsibility for your stupid ass fucking up and/or dying. You're hooking homemade electronics to something that's gonna be near your no-no zone. The stupidity in this is obvious. So don't come to us if you hurt yourself, we hate the smell of singed pubes.
Also, don't just pick any toy. This is the future. This is special. I went to The Dildo Store and bought this toy specifically for this tutorial. Why? What made it call out to me from the shelves?
It HAS LEDs IN IT! Really! It has little Red and Green LEDs that light up when you turn it on! Blinky blinky! IT'S A RAVE IN A DILDO! uNF
Er.... so... yeah....
With that being said, ON TO THE TUTORIAL!
Putting it together
This is the back of a PS1 controller. PS2 controllers have 1
less screw.
First off, let's take part the PS2 Controller. Remove the 6-7 screws in the back, and remove the back plate. The circuit board is held in by one more screw, so don't worry about losing anything out of the front. We shouldn't really need to take the board out.
Unlike the XBox, the vibration motors are soldered directly onto the board. There's a couple of different routes we can take here. Best choice is to get the right motor out, wick up or suck out the old solder using desoldering wick or a solder sucker, respectively, and replace the pads with new solder. The next best solution is to pull the motor wires out of the current pads, and try to solder your wires in. Finally, if you don't mind possibly blowing whatever is powering the vibration motors in the controller (and possibly breaking your PS2), you can just put your wires in parallel with the motor wires.
PS1 Dual Shock Controller Pads
PS2 Controller Pads
This is a really easy 2 point soldering job. Simply solder two wires onto the pads for the large vibration motor. Make SURE to mark which wire is which (positive/negative wise). Polarity issues are the last thing you want to deal with, as they tend to produce lots of magic smoke.
Since there arn't really any holes in a PS2 controller, you're gonna have to grind out a small hole in the side of your controller in order to make a hole for the wire to pass thru. Seeing I don't really feel like fucking up my PS controllers, I'm not including any pictures. This step is pretty self explanitory anyways.
Now there's the question of whether or not you want to hook up the vibration motor again or not. If you do, the two motors will be connected in parallel. If you've got a VERY low power thing that you're hooking up on the other end, this is probably ok. However, put anything requiring decent amount pf power and you'll probably bake something. If you don't hook the vibration motor line back up, the tap line will get the full current.
The other solution is to unsolder the vibration motor connector completely, and hook the motors in series. Each motor will get 2.5v, which means you'll be fine for your vibrator, but the vibration motor might be a little slow (Though it does still run at 2.5V @ 100-200mA).
Update (Thanks to Oscar G): A good idea for any of these setups would be to wire a 200-300mA fuse in front of the power tap. Sure, there's gonna be plastic and whatever else between you and the direct voltage, but things tend to get a little... wet and messy down there, and if the current jumps, you don't want something that looks like the head of an electrified cartoon character in your crotch.
Put the controller back together, and you're done installing the power tap. Easy, wasn't it?
To get this working in your vibrator, you're going to need to get the exposed wires on the outside connected to the battery leads somehow. I have a rather ghetto method for doing this.
I'm going to assume you've got a vibrator that takes 2 AA batteries, side by side, in a series connection. Get your electrical tape, and use a single, non-overlapping strip to tape the batteries together side by side (If the tape overlaps, it might make the width of the two-battery-package too large to actually fit in the vibe.). Then tape the batteries lengthwise, so that all the contacts are covered by the electrical tape. Finally, tape the correct ends of your exposed wire over the contacts. You've now created a make-shift battery that will run off the tapped power from the controller.
UPDATE (Thanks to R B for this): FOR THE LOVE OF GOD MAKE SURE YOU COMPLETELY COVER THE BATTERY CONTACTS WITH TAPE. Even better, don't use batteries at all. Find something battery shaped that will work. I know said to do it above, but it's absolutely, ridiculously important to make sure that NO part of the battery ends are exposed through the tape. If a wire running current comes in contact with the exposed battery, you run the risk of have a battery explode, which is definitely not something anyone should ever have to deal with (just ask any below average EE student for their experience).
Here's what the whole package looks like.
This is what the top looks like. Note the ghetto as shit job I did on aligning the wires. That's pure fuckin' American laziness at work right there. Not like you people have anything to say about it, I don't see any of YOU spending your free time hooking dildos up to power sockets, eh?
This idea can be used for one battery systems, too. Just wrap the contacts in electrical tape, then tape the exposed wires on the corresponding ends of the battery. There's a question of the width of battery+wire not working, and since it's going to be a motor rated near 1.5v it's gonna burn out really quick, but it's doable.
Put the battery pack in whatever you planned on putting it in, boot up your favorite game, and go into the options menu to test the vibration function. Assuming you hooked up everything correctly, you should now have a force feedback sex toy!
Time for our first test of the vibrator (with no one attached to the other end, unfortunatly. We really gotta work on the whole porn aspect of this site). In dedication to JG Ballard (and to a lesser extend, David Cronenberg), I decided to use Burnout 3 in Crash mode. There's nothing quite as satisfying as watching a dildo run due to the fact that you just crashed your car into a crowded intersection. Sure enough, the second I hit another car, the vibe took off across the table. It was truly a beautiful sight, and one I'll hopefully have a movie of here pretty soon.
The Future
- Make the wire longer (yeah, 8 inches of wire is most definitely not enough), and put on some flavor of connector.
- Current regulation so that things don't burn out so quick. This is just a matter of me not being so damn lazy.
- I need to try this on a Gamecube controllers. I have some, it's just a matter of opening them up (or else just finding a picture of them) and finding the lines. Once I do this, I'll post pictures. I'm sure the instructions will be almost exactly the same.
